Vallo di Nera

 

Bell Tower Vallo di Nera

We left La Licina while still dark to drive to Sant Anatolia di Narco, a beautiful village near the Nera River for the walk to Vallo di Nera an equally delightful town higher up in the mountains.  Having stopped for coffee and a sustaining cornetto in Spoleto’s Piazza Garibaldi it was light by the time we set off from San Anatolia firstly along the river to lovely San Felice where we encountered our first obstacle.  The bridge over the river had been damaged and closed to the public, presumably in the earthquake but as it provided the only access to our trail we needed to cross. Fortunately it was relatively easy to lift the temporary barrier from its mooring, squeeze past and replace!

San Felice

 

Abbey of San Felice

Leaving San Felice

Setting off  from San Anatolia di Narco

Pleased with ourselves we began a steep and seemingly never ending climb through dense oak and beech forest our footfalls the only sound other than birdsong. While strenuous and at times difficult, views of surrounding peaks where small hamlets perched, the scent of wild flowers and the absolute tranquility of the place were exhilarating. 

towards Vallo di Nera

Unfortunately the route indicated on my map (five years old) no longer exists so instead we safely followed the new trail markers to Vallo di Nera and ignored the older map tracks. The town came into view tantalizingly behind a screen of trees where it remained until we were quite close with then a clear view of the bell tower and stonewalls of the medieval village. A little church close to the village was unfortunately closed but through the barred windows we could see some quite lovely frescoed walls but nothing compared to the village itself- a jewel with its steep lanes, pretty gardens and spectacular views.

 

Abbie peering into locked chaple

photo of frescoes through the bars

Vallo di  Nera

Inside the town

After an exploration rather than return the way we had come we walked down quite a long way- kilometres to the river where there is a greenway track leading back to San Anatolia. What a delight to walk the shady path along the river, even when it petered out into farmers’ fields. Apple trees everywhere laden with sweet red crisp fruit we picked enough to make a pudding for our last dinner at La Licina that evening.

Once at the closed bridge but on the other side we found a path back to San Anatolia and having reached the lower town treated ourselves to an excellent coffee at a very busy bar. Near to San Anatolia is the little town of Caso with a small church with unusual frescoes that we wanted to see but could only do so through a registered guide booked through the local museum. I had sent an email request but as there had been no response we decided to turn up in person and ask. We were in luck and one of the guides was in charge at the museum that day and we were able to negotiate for her to take us there for the princely cost of 5 euro on the following Tuesday! This was achieved with my very limited Italian and her equally little English.

 

Greenway path back to San Anatolia

River Nera

Apple tree and source of the apple crumble

With a dinner to prepare on the last evening for our host Ludovico we returned to the shops in Spoleto to make our purchases. The plan was an Australian menu of roast lamb and apple crumble but we couldn’t obtain the lamb roast so settled for pork to be accompanied by the potatoes and onions we bought in Colfiorito and a green salad. A sutiable addition was sweet gathered figs, rock melon and prosciutto and of course the apple crumble accompanied with crème fraiche.

With excellent local Grechetto and Montefalco Rosso to go with the dinner it turned out a treat , at least from our view point.

It is sad to farewell a loved place a friend and excellent host but I am sure we will return and we still had a local walk planned for the next morning!