Mountains, wolves and villages

From Mount Vezzena

With perfect weather forecast, I headed off before 6 to Vezzena Pass, a high point on the Alto Plain and a relatively short drive from Lavarone, where I planned to climb through the forest to the peak of Mt Vezzena. The reward for effort is an amazing 360 degree views over the Dolomites and the valleys beneath and the lakes Levico and Caldonazzo. After parking at the Hotel Vezzena, which disappointingly wasn’t open yet for coffee, I set off on foot just as  the sun rose over the mountains and filtered through the heavy mist. It was freezing but that would not last long with the exertion of the climb.

 

Forte Verle

Utterly silent other than the tinkling of cow- bells and the sound of my own footfalls I began the climb, first past the remains of Forte Verle, one of the many reminders of the impact of WW1 on the Tirol communities, then to the mountain. The ascent through the largely pine forest seems never ending and at times difficult but with clumps of miniature cyclamen an assortment of funghi, the odd deer and early morning bird song I felt enveloped by the forest. 

 

Bucolic scene

The mountain

The 360-degree vista on reaching the summit is breathtakingly wonderful, with snow -topped mountains, rich valleys and the expanse of the plateau. The remnants of an Austrian fort at the summit have been restored and a viewing platform, complete with safety fence ensures a non- lethal visit. (There are a range of memorial plaques commemorating the young men who fell, as in off the mountain) 

I sat in the sun absorbing the beauty and the awe and grateful that I had this place to myself. 

 

Memorial tile

Lake view

Nearly there

Vista from the top

I chose the longer but less demanding way back along a wide gravel trail and before too long met other groups of hikers on the ascent and everyone politely offers a ”buongiorno.” I also noticed regular signs forbidding the taking of funghi from the forest reserve; Dolly says that to gather mushrooms one must pay 5 euro and that there is a cap on how many may be picked and apparently there are substantial fines for non compliance! By the time I reached Forte Verle, I was very keen for breakfast and coffee and did just that at the Hotel Vezzena, which is a welcome way station for hikers and motor bike riders. Sitting in the sun with a warm sweet pastry and excellent coffee capped off  a wonderful morning.

The high plateau is dairy country and it seems that every farm has a hand painted sign advertising their farm cheese, yogurt and butter but I needed to return to begin my day with Dolly, so resisted the temptation. We had yet to make firm plans and on the way back I saw an advertisement for an exhibition, “The return of the wolf” in nearby Luserna, and thought that an intriguing option.

 

Luserna

Dolly was also very keen on the exhibition idea and to visit Luserna so off we set. Luserna is a mere 11 ks from Lavarone but culturally quite different. Dolly explained that the village had been quite isolated with poor road access and that many children in surrounding farms had difficulty in getting to school. The community also has its own language, based on German, which is now protected and encouraged. Houses in the village have been restored under a strict code and must be painted, so there are pink, blue, green and yellow houses all with lovely gardens and colourful pots of geraniums on the porch. It really is a lovely little town with also spectacular views over the mountains.

Luserna

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After parking we wandered around and discovered a couple selling from the back of their van new season apples, pears as well as tomatoes and potatoes and Dolly bought a bag of large red apples and I a bag of pears. I ate one immediately which was sweet and delicious. The exhibition re-opened at 2 so we found what seemed to be a small restaurant, Bar Ristorante Ferdyand were offered a table. Once upstairs, the space was quite large with quite a substantial lunch party well underway. Despite the crowd we were served quickly and efficiently from a largely German style menu. I had a funghi strudel  and salad and Dolly venison and potatoes with also a carafe of local white wine. An excellent lunch with impeccable service!

The museum was similarly impressive with three rooms dedicated to the history of the wolf in Italy, including realistic dioramas, a series of documentaries and information displays in Italian ,German and English. Wolves are now protected in Italy and are returning particularly to mountain regions. Despite their reputation for savagery they do not attack humans, even in packs and from DNA evidence obtained from reported wolf attacks it is clear that the culprits are actually wild dog. 

Livestock however are not immune from attack but farmers with Marrema  sheep dogs  are usually safe and the government compensates those few whose stock are taken. This has not stopped the killing of wolves however as press accounts of apparent wolf attacks, even when proven false have resulted in vigilante killings.

I was very surprised to learn that wolves are shy creatures and that only the lead male and female wolf may breed in any pack. Of the four cubs, only one will survive into adulthood and young males and females at some point leave a pack and form their own.

A small museum but what a fabulous exhibition and I bought several small books to share with the children. 

The afternoon now closing in, we made the return to Lavarone, me to the Laundromat and Dolly for a rest. We shared dinner together of traditional Sunday night pizza at the hotel where they do a brisk takeaway trade as well as for their guests. One of the four brothers involved in running the place is a master pizza maker; crisp on the bottom with a good range of topping choices on a local theme- funghi, cheeses, tomato and various vegetables and smoked meat. Guests choose either white or red wine from a tap and fill their own jugs- not especially brilliant wine but not too bad!

 Sadly last dinner in Lavarone!