Ferrara

Abbey of Pomposa

The Po River Delta National Park near Ravenna is rich in birdlife and the wetlands near the lagoon town of Comacchio are home to a flock of wild flamingos, which I had planned to visit and to that end detoured to Comacchio  on my way to Ferrara. With a series of bird watching towers overlooking the wetlands on my route I stopped to climb a number but sadly no flamingos. Boat trips to view the flock operate twice daily over the summer period but as that has officially ended, the tours only operate only on weekends, unfortunately for me.

 There is no vehicle access in Comacchio, due to its system of canals and lovely arched bridges and I had difficulty finding a park outside the historical centre to walk to the tourist office for flamingo information so  reluctantly abandoned my mission,  deciding instead to pay a short visit to the beautiful 8C Abbey of Pomposa, the  magnificent bell tower of which dominates the flat green fertile fields of the Po flood plain. 

Romanesque in style the Abbey is reminiscent of the Ravenna basilicas but with frescoes rather than mosaics adorning the interior. It is magnificent both inside and out with the façade richly decorated in terracotta, marble and majolica tiles. It really is a most wonderful edifice!

 

Side view with bell tower

Interior

Floor 

On now to Ferrara, the main purpose of my visit to catch up with the lovely family of my son in law Orio, who have made my time in this beautiful city very special with their generosity in time and hospitality. The drive to Ferrara is stunning through rich agricultural countryside, vineyards, orchards; the road lined with massive oak and plane trees. I almost arrived safely at the Hotel Prati except for an incident as I entered the narrow street  of the hotel and where I  managed to hit a stone ballard. Thank god for travel insurance!

My driving woes were not yet over because as there is no parking outside the hotel I needed to find a spot in one of the streets designated by the hotel. Unfortunately the  main street nominated was closed for road works and properly flustered I mistakenly drove into a little lane that lead into one of the central piazzas so had no option but to creep forward metre by metre to avoid hitting people legitimately in the square. Finally, I discovered a spot quite near the hotel but exhausted by the stress of the previous hour just flopped on my bed for an hour.

 

on the way to Ferrara

Like Ravenna, Ferrara is also of red brick construction from the plentiful supply of clay soils. Castello Estense constructed as a fortress in the 13 C by the D’Este, lords of Ferrara dominates the town with its massive four  corner towers, a bell tower and moat.  As Ferrara is entirely flat, the main mode of transport within the city is bicycle as in Ravenna. How fantastic to be in an environment where bikes have priority over cars!

I spent the afternoon and evening with Patrizia, Orio’s cousin, who arrived after work to take me to the village of Migliarino to visit elderly cousins Marisa and Germano, who welcomed us with coffee and biscuits and later insisted that I take the remaining biscuits as well as a large bag of pears and plums! On a previous occasion I left with a mountain of pickles and sauces made by Germano, such is their generosity.

 On our return to Ferrara the traffic was banked up at the entry to the city, as one of the main bridges had been closed pending an investigation into its structural safety after the Genova bridge collapse. This is happening in a number of locations in the North of Italy in response to the disaster.

Finally arriving in the old town,  Patrizia and I had the most fabulous dinner at one of the best Ferrara restaurants Trattoria Noemi, where I had a local speciality of ravioli with spinach and ricotta and then a tasting plate of desserts. What a wonderful end to my first day in Ferarra!

Castle Estense

 

Castello Estense

A visit to the massive Castle Estense was first port of call the following morning, in particular to  see the Cavallini Sgarbi collection, displayed in single wing of the castle. Built at the end of the 12C by the Este clan in response to a public revolt against their despotic rule, the castle was transformed over time from fortress to the home of the duke and his family. Wonderful courtyard gardens, and delightfully frescoed salons and bedrooms are discovered in the upper levels with grim lightless dungeons below ground. 

 

roof tops of Ferrara

view from the bell tower

citrus garden courtyard

I climbed the 120 stairs of the “Lions Tower” for a spectacular view over the city and then to the exhibition displaying pieces from the 13- 20 century from the collection of the Ferrarese Sgarbi family, which is really worth a visit to the castle on its own. I stopped for a coffee in the castle café and observed a couple of people with dogs on their laps and aft reading the conditions of entry on my ticket noted that there is allowed access for “Small dogs if transported in a special bag” I just love how dogs are ubiquitous in public and private spaces in Italy; shops, buses, trains, cafes and restaurants, in stark contrast to Australian culture.

 

14 C Madoona and Child from Sgarbi collection

Decorative fresco from the room of Games

Frescoed ceiling in salon

Sadly the Palazzo Scifanoia with the wonderful “Hall of the months” was closed for renovation so I spent some time in the museum of the Duomo with its exquisite cloister and courtyard garden. Patrizia was soon to pick me up for a trip to the Bologna for FICO Eataly, the world’s largest agri food park and to visit the family at their home in Cento, half way between Ferrara and Bologna. After a brief stop at the family home to say hello to mother Lidia, father Romolo and to pick up brother Paolo we set off in Paolo’s car and soon arrived at the amazing FICO Fabbrica Italiana Contadina ( Italian Farming Factory), under one enormous 100,000 sq m roof.

 

Patricia and I outside FICO

Entry is completely free and as it is so huge many people hire bicycles with large baskets both to travel around the site and to carry purchases. The last two bikes had been hired out by the time we arrived so it was walking for us! Inside are more than 45 Italian eateries, apparently selected for their passion for excellence. The kitchens in the restaurants are visible behind glass panels and host 30 daily sessions to educate the consumer on food production and there are many interactive experiences to promote slow food, sustainable farming and the environment with coffee and wine exhibitions, concert spaces and in the outside area vegetable gardens and farm animals. I doubt that there was any aspect of  regional food culture not represented.

It would be easy to spend at least a full day exploring, tasting and experiencing as many visitors do with the park open from 10 till midnight each day. I bought ground coffee, wine, bergamot juice and cheese and imagined how much fun it would be to bring the grandchildren! I thought that this is only possible in Italy where food and its source is of critical cultural importance. A fantastic afternoon spent with friends!

We returned to Cento for a family dinner- the most delicious cannelloni followed by tender and tasty vitello tonnato by and finally, scrumptious tira misu. Lidia is a stunning cook and even with enormous responsibilities turns on a wonderful feast- how lucky was I to experience such hospitality, which extended to Paolo and Patrizia generously driving me back to Ferrara.  What a lot we packed in over two days!

I fare-welled Ferrara with a morning walk around the almost intact medieval city walls and for once did not get lost. With ramparts and trees rising out of a thick mist it really was almost otherworldly and I hiked back to the hotel with a glad heart- made gladder after a great coffee and excellent breakfast. Ciao Ferrara, till next time.

 

On the city walls

another view

walking path Ferrara