Via Degli Dei Stage 4 : Monte di Fo' to San Piero a Pieve

interesting exposed roots on the trail

On leaving the Hotel Sergente, the track initially took us back towards La Futa before leading

into a forest of pine, beech oak and spruce where we walked on trails in an eerie mist which didn’t lift for several hours. The silence of the forest felt almost oppressive and the sudden appearance of several deer, like apparitions in this strange but beautiful fairy tale landscape evoked an imagining of the elusive red riding hood with her hungry wolf .

 

 

We climbed steeply to the top of Monte Gazzano, a white cross marking the summit and where the trail guide and app encourages hikers to write in a notebook,  “libro vetta di Monte Gazzaro” held in an iron box weighted with stones. At this point there is a choice; to continue along the ridge, not recommended in poor weather or to retrace steps for a couple of hundred metres to reach the official trail. We chose the latter in the context of the still heavy mist.

 

Summit Monte Gazzano

As we descended to a crossroad the mist began to clear and emerging from the fog what glorious vistas of surrounding mountains, rich countryside and small towns!  At the trail intersection was a box in which had been left  a variety of useful items such as sunscreen, maps, a torch, blister pack etc- lovely gestures of hiker camaraderie in this isolated spot.  The footing on the downward climb was at times treacherous and underscored the necessity of hiking poles in this environment. We arrived in a clearing , “Osteria Bruciata, where by legend an inn once stood and where unsuspecting travellers were killed, cooked and served up as specialties of the house!

 

"help yourself box for hikers"

the lifting mist

 

site of Osteria Bruciata

Soon we had a first view of our immediate destination the little town of Santa Agata named after its  beautiful 9C church, which we dearly hoped would be open in view of its reputation for housing important art works. Once out of the forest and on a bitumen road lined with apple and kiwi fruit orchards we approached the village through lush countryside with incredibly deep and rich topsoil. We had been noting topsoil depth since leaving Bologna and it is thus no surprise that small acreages which in Australia would not be commercially viable, here grow significant amounts of produce.

 

Kiwi fruit orchard

We climbed to the village and reached the piazza of Sant’Agata with its beautiful sandstone church and bell tower. The original building dating to the 4 or 5 C was successively remodelled in the 9 & 12 centuries and contains beautiful paintings and frescoes including one particularly violent depiction of the torture of Saint Agatha! Unfortunately the Museum of Sacred Art attached to the church was not open so after spending a goodish time exploring inside and out we retired to the alfresco area of a small local bar in a sunny piazza for the most delicious mixed salad with tuna and glass of local white wine. All in the world seemed perfect.

 

Santa Agata

 

Torture of Santa Agata

 

Medieval Sculpture

 

Church interior

 

simple exterior

Lunch

towards San Piero a Sieve

 

clock and bell tower

The final leg of Stage 4 took was a 7 kilometre slog along a local road but with stunningly beautiful rural scenery to distract our feet and finally we walked into our destination for the day, the village San Piero A Sieve where Andrew was waiting for us at the Hotel Felicino. Our host was an elderly gentleman who informed us that the hotel had been in his family for over 100 years and who clearly was a fine cook from the wonderful smells emerging from his kitchen.  The rooms were quite delightful with quaint ancient furniture and balconies overlooking the square and after long hot showers we convened in the garden for a drink to celebrate the successful conclusion of Stage 4.



 

Pork tartare and fig entre

 We took a leisurely walk to the top of the village- again amazing views, then past an interesting renaissance palace converted to apartment living and a  general exploration  of this lovely town before an excellent dinner at Osteria di San Piero di Elisabetta Nicchi. We had hoped to dine at our hotel but it was apparent that our host was cooking for a private party and directed us instead to the Osteria. We weren’t disappointed! I had a quite special pork tartare accompanied by figs and pizza to follow, sadly our last dinner on the trail before the final stage and train to Rome!