Lost again

 

View Climbing from San Severo

Despite our failure to find a good map of the walking trails in the Martani mountains we felt reasonably confident that  it was within our capacity to find our way on a circular route from the tiny village of San Severo up onto the high plateau above the town and through the forest to the deserted village of Lo Scoppio and back. Stopping first at the local bar run by two delightful sisters and their mother for  most necessary coffee and cornetti we reached San Severo as sunrise touched the mountains- the best time of the day as the light is so exquisite.

After a steep four kilometer climb up an access track we reached the high plain, an area designated for community agricultural activity by the EU, specifically stock grazing. Here cows and horses roam freely with bells around their necks tinkling as they graze. Sadly  it is also a favourite  location for hunters seeking wild boar and we encountered several well organised outfits with packs of dogs. Hunters regard hikers as a nuisance and endeavour to deter them by destroying trail markers, which is a quite successful strategy as there are a number of trails criss crossing the mountains so getting lost is almost inevitable without GPS trax on a smart phone.

 

Hikers hut with vandalised map

On the high plain

Hunter Vehicle and dog van

Very soon we found ourselves in the predicament of needing to choose a direction without the aid of markers but a man in the hunters’ back up vehicle pointed us in what we hoped was the right direction as our path took us deep into the forest. Other than the occasional crack of gun shot it is so free of human noise on the plateau and in the mountains with only bird song and a breeze through the trees. We had indeed been given correct advice as within 45 minutes we sighted the bell tower of Lo Scoppio and in another 15 arrived. The stone houses seem very solid and with the most wonderful views over wooded mountains and a valley below we wondered why it had been abandoned? Was it its isolation perhaps?

 

Approaching Lo Scoppio

There has been some vandalism in the village; the church doors bashed in and flotsam from people dossing in the empty buildings but it is such a  lovely spot high on its stony outcrop. The little church is simple and one can still see 17C (probably) frescoes albeit somewhat faded but thankfully untouched as well as a basic stone altar. The bells have been removed from the tower but one can almost evoke how they would have echoed across the valley and mountains telling the hour.

 

Fresco decoration

Interior Church

Faded fresco in poor light

the Bell tower minus bells

We headed steeply down from the outcrop and then equally steeply up onto a parallel ridge revealing a different aspect of the village and then as we continued over Lake Firenzuola far below. Reaching the small hamlet of La Costa the trail markers petered out and we took what we believed to be the correct direction  only to become hopelessly lost and disoriented in the forest where we thrashed around in thick undergrowth  to find a way down. Frustrated and scratched we climbed up to find a view -point and fortuitously stumbled on a trail leading to a series of bird hides. Eventually we reached the outskirts of the village of Ocinelli where we inquired from an elderly couple the trail direction to San Severo and our car. Walking back along the road would have been a total capitulation so with renewed enthusiasm we marched on stopping for a fruit and water rest with a fine view of San Severo on its hill confident that now on a path our seamless arrival was guaranteed. Sadly not so as again the path petered out and in forest again we contemplated bush bashing again or walking through a farmer’s olive grove along a fence line, which is what we ultimately did and at last discovered the road up to the village, somewhat a defeat but not a humiliation.

 

bird hide

Remains from dossiers

Towards Firenzuola

Last view of Lo Scoppio

It is a great pity that this paradise for walking is not more effectively managed as it has the potential to create economic benefit for the mountain communities. Walkers could pay a fee to use the trails which would also lead to increased spending in  nearby villages and towns with hikers requiring accommodation and food . The difficulty in sourcing accurate maps is a significant deterrent to all but the most determined who understand when walking in this region there is a strong likelihood of getting lost. Even with the frustrations outlined above it is an experience that I wouldn’t choose to miss out on and there is always coffee at the end!

 

Nearly there- we thought!

Over the valley