Via Degli Dei Stage 5: San Piero a Sieve to Bivigliano

Medici villa Trebbio

 

Breakfast at Hotel Felicino was a formal affair with set places at a large table. I  Inadvertently sat in the “wrong” place and was politely requested to move to make way for a middle aged permanent resident of the hotel. Also at the table were a group of English hikers who were unable to muster sufficient courtesy for to say “hello,” which was quite an odd experience as there is usually a sense of camaraderie among hikers!

 

Fortezza San Martino

 
Wonder

Wonderful misty morning

Abbie and I headed off before 8 am, keen to walk as far as possible before Andrew picked us up so we could return the car to Florence and then catch our train to Rome. The full stage is very long- from San Piero a Sieve to Florence at nearly 12 hours which highlights that the trail should ideally be undertaken over six days. It was a glorious autumn morning and we wished that we had organised ourselves with enough flexibility to at least complete the stage at Fiesole in the heart of the Mugello, which is said to be wonderful.

 

Climbing up through the village we reached the Fortezza Medicea San Martino, built as a fortress by Cosimo Medici in 1569 due to its strategic position between Bologna and Florence. Unfortunately it was too early in the day to visit so we continued on through some of the most magnificent Tuscan countryside reaching soon Castello del Trebbio, another World Heritage listed Medici Villa. As the gate was open we stepped inside but a woman informed us that being a private residence it wasn’t open to visitors. She did allow us though to take some photos of the exterior and its gorgeous garden.

 

 

Avenue of pines leading to the Villa Trebbio

Delightful little church

Ceramic Madonna and Child

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Surrounding the Villa are olive groves and orchards with an iconic Tuscan avenue of candle pines leading to the gate. Nearby is a tiny church and then above a community trough, a beautiful ceramic Madonna and child. We continued along country lanes with the Villa on its hill a constant landmark until entering forest once more. We were confronted with a heart- wrenching poster advertising a “lost” domesticated boar answering to the name Hermann, which the owners presumed had been killed by hunters. Photos of the animal showed it as an affectionate creature and we hoped that it may yet be returned. Autumn is hunting season and the sound of guns in the forest ubiquitous and disconcerting with hunters’ vehicles parked off forest roads, even in areas designated as fauna reserves!

 

Poor lost pig!

We rested briefly outside the village of Tagliaferro before another steep climb, but on seeing the English hikers in the distance we set off once more on a sustained climb past the abandoned Abbey Buonsollazzo and saw no more of them. At this point we decided to hike to the village of Bivigliano where there would be an opportunity for Andrew to pick us up in good time to return to Florence and where we could have lunch. Sitting on the terrace of a little restaurant bar where we had a quite delicious mushroom pasta and glass of white wine, we toasted each other and the walk itself.

The climbs had been some of the most sustained and toughest thus far on the trail but the beauty of the forests, the landscape and unexpected sights of animals and of course wonderful rural countryside was hard to leave

Abbey Buonsollazzo

Wonderful countryside!

 

  On a future occasion I want to complete the final section with time also to explore some of the sights of the region we had missed. This trail is one of the most well marked and supported with resources and information that I have yet encountered and I thoroughly recommend it, but with time built in to explore!

http://www.emiliaromagnaturismo.com/en/apennines-and-nature/the-way-of-the-gods

Via Degli Dei Stage 4 : Monte di Fo' to San Piero a Pieve

interesting exposed roots on the trail

On leaving the Hotel Sergente, the track initially took us back towards La Futa before leading

into a forest of pine, beech oak and spruce where we walked on trails in an eerie mist which didn’t lift for several hours. The silence of the forest felt almost oppressive and the sudden appearance of several deer, like apparitions in this strange but beautiful fairy tale landscape evoked an imagining of the elusive red riding hood with her hungry wolf .

 

 

We climbed steeply to the top of Monte Gazzano, a white cross marking the summit and where the trail guide and app encourages hikers to write in a notebook,  “libro vetta di Monte Gazzaro” held in an iron box weighted with stones. At this point there is a choice; to continue along the ridge, not recommended in poor weather or to retrace steps for a couple of hundred metres to reach the official trail. We chose the latter in the context of the still heavy mist.

 

Summit Monte Gazzano

As we descended to a crossroad the mist began to clear and emerging from the fog what glorious vistas of surrounding mountains, rich countryside and small towns!  At the trail intersection was a box in which had been left  a variety of useful items such as sunscreen, maps, a torch, blister pack etc- lovely gestures of hiker camaraderie in this isolated spot.  The footing on the downward climb was at times treacherous and underscored the necessity of hiking poles in this environment. We arrived in a clearing , “Osteria Bruciata, where by legend an inn once stood and where unsuspecting travellers were killed, cooked and served up as specialties of the house!

 

"help yourself box for hikers"

the lifting mist

 

site of Osteria Bruciata

Soon we had a first view of our immediate destination the little town of Santa Agata named after its  beautiful 9C church, which we dearly hoped would be open in view of its reputation for housing important art works. Once out of the forest and on a bitumen road lined with apple and kiwi fruit orchards we approached the village through lush countryside with incredibly deep and rich topsoil. We had been noting topsoil depth since leaving Bologna and it is thus no surprise that small acreages which in Australia would not be commercially viable, here grow significant amounts of produce.

 

Kiwi fruit orchard

We climbed to the village and reached the piazza of Sant’Agata with its beautiful sandstone church and bell tower. The original building dating to the 4 or 5 C was successively remodelled in the 9 & 12 centuries and contains beautiful paintings and frescoes including one particularly violent depiction of the torture of Saint Agatha! Unfortunately the Museum of Sacred Art attached to the church was not open so after spending a goodish time exploring inside and out we retired to the alfresco area of a small local bar in a sunny piazza for the most delicious mixed salad with tuna and glass of local white wine. All in the world seemed perfect.

 

Santa Agata

 

Torture of Santa Agata

 

Medieval Sculpture

 

Church interior

 

simple exterior

Lunch

towards San Piero a Sieve

 

clock and bell tower

The final leg of Stage 4 took was a 7 kilometre slog along a local road but with stunningly beautiful rural scenery to distract our feet and finally we walked into our destination for the day, the village San Piero A Sieve where Andrew was waiting for us at the Hotel Felicino. Our host was an elderly gentleman who informed us that the hotel had been in his family for over 100 years and who clearly was a fine cook from the wonderful smells emerging from his kitchen.  The rooms were quite delightful with quaint ancient furniture and balconies overlooking the square and after long hot showers we convened in the garden for a drink to celebrate the successful conclusion of Stage 4.



 

Pork tartare and fig entre

 We took a leisurely walk to the top of the village- again amazing views, then past an interesting renaissance palace converted to apartment living and a  general exploration  of this lovely town before an excellent dinner at Osteria di San Piero di Elisabetta Nicchi. We had hoped to dine at our hotel but it was apparent that our host was cooking for a private party and directed us instead to the Osteria. We weren’t disappointed! I had a quite special pork tartare accompanied by figs and pizza to follow, sadly our last dinner on the trail before the final stage and train to Rome!

 

Via Degli Dei Stage 3 : Madonna di Fornelli to Monte di Fo'

Section of garden, Nova Abora

 

Immediately after breakfast we checked out from Nova Abora, disappointed that there wasn’t sufficient time to explore the beautiful garden.  On departure the burglar dog firmly grabbed Andrew’s arm in apparent play and also made a hole in Abbie’s jumper in a similar display! I would be a bit concerned to bring children there given this propensity and the animal’s ability to enter apartments uninvited!

 

We returned to Madonna dei Fornelli and before setting off enjoyed an excellent cappuccino in the little bar after which we commenced a long climb in a beautiful forest of beech, oak, spruce and pine encountering evidence of both wild boar  and hunters. The pigs had disturbed large patches of earth as they foraged and in close proximity we found spent shells. We hoped that the boars had escaped!

 

leaving Madonna di Fornelli

 

leaves changing colour in the forest

Soon we were back on the Roman road again; so fascinating with its massive flagstones but also difficult and precarious going on steep descents when the stones are broken. We stopped at “Piana degli Ossi” (Bones Land) to look at some ancient Roman furnace stones dating from 2B.C.E where a series of furnaces operated to produce quicklime for building use with thus strategic access to road transport. Of six known furnaces one has been excavated.

 

ancient lime furnace

 

 A shared morning tea of biscuits, fruit and water in a grassy meadow near an abandoned stone house provided a very welcome break before a steep climb, 1200 metres to the highest point of the Via Degli Dei, Cima della Banditacce, halfway between Bologna and Florence. From here the rest of the stage was mainly down but over sometimes very difficult rocky terrain where we totally relied on our hiking poles for balance and support. This track eventually leads to the outskirts of La Futa where we walked past a massive and very well maintained German war cemetery- the biggest in Italy.  There are constant reminders of this relatively recent trauma and the silence of this place in its forest setting is quite eerie and unsettling.

Roman road- 

 

morning tea spot

Following a forest path adjacent to the road, after three kilometres we arrived at our destination Mont di Fo’ and discovered the town was really only a hotel and large camping ground. Fortunately the Hotel Sergente was very comfy albeit with simple rooms and after a wonderful shower we met in the alfresco dining area where we were brought the most delicious bruschetta with olive oil and garlic with also a selection of salami cheese and prosciutto. We made short work of our late lunch (it was 3 pm) and marvelled at the quality of the accommodation and food relative to its modest cost; 50 euro a double and 30 for a single room!

 

German War Cemetery

Dinner at the hotel was similarly excellent. I had a simple cut of beef with rocket and shaved parmesan, Andrew roast venison and Abbie steak with a creamy sauce and vegetables, all  accompanied by an excellent bottle of chianti. We felt very lucky and appreciative.  We were similarly grateful for the outstanding support provided by the Via Degli Dei organisation re accommodation options, trail information and signage, which contributed significantly to the pleasure of the hike!

http://www.emiliaromagnaturismo.com/en/apennines-and-nature/the-way-of-the-gods

Stage 2 Via Degli Dei: Sasso Marconi to Madonna di Fornelli

Patchwork countryside Day 2

 

After the best sleep in years we woke refreshed and excited about the next stage and after a most delicious breakfast of savoury pancake, coffee, apple cake and toast set off with a packed lunch of breakfast fare, cheese and fruit. As the BNB is right on the route of the via degli Dei it was a matter only of walking out the gate before entering a chestnut forest where sunlight filtered magically and the only sound, the plop of ripe chestnuts falling. What a perfect autumn morning it was; cool but sunny, leaves turning red and yellow and amazing views in all directions after emerging from the forest.

 

Misty morning Day 2

 

 In the forest

 

Our map and app provided two options, a longer trek to the summit of Monte Adone or the other, a quicker route avoiding the summit. We took the latter in view of the length of the day (27k), which we later regretted in view of the spectacular scenery missed. Nevertheless we experienced wonderful vistas and views of the peak itself, passed a small lavender plantation in the middle of nowhere and stopped for a cappuccino and cornetto break in the tiny village of Brento.

 

Lavender plantation

 

View of Monte Adone

 

Autumn colours

As mentioned previously, the trail is exceptionally well marked and one would have to try very hard to get lost while the app provides additional interesting information about the area through which one walks. Soon after Brento the trail follows an ancient Roman military road and largely remains on it until near the end at Fiesole and then Florence. How wonderful to actually walk on these massive flagstones the foundation of a road that remains after nearly 2000 years and what a testament to the engineering genius of the Romans!

 

 

Roman road

At this point we met a group of male hikers approaching from the opposite direction and soon after a dog appeared which we thought may have belonged to them. Instead it followed us with hackles raised and threatening and just as the track took us out onto a local road it rushed at us with teeth bared. Fortunately our raised hiking poles deterred it but the thought of rabies crossed my mind faced with its frothing mouth. No harm done but it was a warning about taking seriously the dangers of interacting with stray animals.

 

The following section of approximately 8 kilometres on and off the road until the town of Montezuno was hard on our feet and we looked forward to finding a restaurant or bar for lunch where we could eat outside and take off our shoes and socks. Andrew met us in the town and even though there were a range of little bars and cafes, none opened for meals until 12.30- it was then 12. Instead we bought ham, cheese, olives and dry biscuits at a little grocery- no fresh bread to be had anywhere and took our impromptu picnic onto the verandah of a restaurant with fabulous views and where we justified our intrusion by buying white wine from the bar. Probably one of the worst wines we experienced in Italy but worth it for the view!

 

view from restaurant balcony

As we headed off after lunch we encountered two young hikers who Andrew had met the day before at Nova Abora carrying both packs and sleeping gear. They were quite prepared to sleep out if necessary, which made me feel a little ambivalent about our own arrangements. I do love the liberation of carrying a pack with all requirements on your back but it is also appealing to have back up, for which we were very grateful when tramping in driving rain. During that afternoon however with an average climb of 680 metres we were most pleased to be minus packs!

 

After a very steep climb we reached a most marvellous chestnut forest with massive ancient trees and noted that these wonderful experiences are available only when walking. We felt fortunate. At some point later we passed an artists’ colony with a range of colourful outdoor sculptures, pretty awful really but also with a wall mural featuring a wolf, which seems to have become my totem on this adventure; present but unseen. We continued to the summit of Mt Rattene, where wind turbines gently whirred and with spectacular views of surrounding mountains; their names and heights displayed on a large sign.

 

Ancient chestnut plantation

 

 

very old church

On the final stage to our destination Madonna dei Fornelli, we passed a delightful  collection of houses and an ancient 4C church- locked of course and then up again to the ancient village of Le Croci where it is possible to hang glide off the mountain. With Madonna dei Fornelli now in view it didn’t take long to complete the final few kilometres and we soon settled on the outside verandah of a local bar where with newly arrived Andrew we scoffed an excellent bottle of  Robbilla Galla from the Venezia region complemented by a delicious selection of snacks provided by our host.  We discovered that the town is relatively new after a landslide in the 1970s buried the old village thus those who escaped sensibly rebuilt elsewhere.

 

 

Unfortunately our navigators, both electronic and human failed on the return to Nova Abora so what should have been a half hour trip took us almost two hours along windy mountain roads. We unanimously decided that from now on we would find accommodation at the end of each hiking stage rather than waste both time and fuel to-ing and fro-ing! Poor Andrew!

 

Entering Madonna di Fornelli

While we rested our weary feet Andrew kindly prepared an excellent dinner with antipasti of cheeses, salami, ham and olives as well as  pasta with pesto and salad, the ingredients of which we purchased at a little roadside stall on our way home. Andrew’s excursion to the fantastic FICO, Eatitaly in Bologna was however the source of much of our dinner which was unfortunately just as tempting to our hosts’ German Shepherd which managed to break in during our absence and eat most of the parmesan!

 

Lesson for the day: Always book accommodation at the end of the stage!
http://www.emiliaromagnaturismo.com/en/apennines-and-nature/the-way-of-the-gods